When you gotta go

Those of you who read my China blog will remember I wrote quite a bit about the Chinese toilet, which is essentially a hole in the restroom floor. My friend Jana Dobesova asked if I'd write something about Czech toilets. I can attest that there's nothing particularly remarkable about the Czech plumbing.  But the cultural customs around the use of these receptacles are entirely different.  In America, there are on occasion pay toilets, but not that often.  We consider charging to use the commode unneighborly.  We even provide toilet paper without any charge.

But the Czechs apparently view the provision of restrooms as a SERVICE for which the client pays.  In the train station restroom above, you purchase a pass for a specified number of visits.  Pretty straightforward.  But what if you're at a concert  in the castle area, and you feel a call of nature?

St. George's Basilica has no public toilet.  I waited until after the concert and started searching.

It's amazing how far you can walk WITHOUT sighting a public toilet. And at this point, I REALLY needed one. Finally, I sighted one, though the gate in front of it was closed.

No matter.  I deposited the requisite 10 crowns (about 50 cents) in the box provided and proceeded to the restroom.  A humorless woman barred my way.  She spoke no English, but I gathered the area was closed.  The floor was wet.  She'd been mopping.

My Czech was not up to the task so, waxing dramatic,  I spoke in impassioned English.  I begged and I pleaded.  I said I was tired and  old.  I offered to pay extra money.  I took some out of my purse.  She remained impassive.  I told her to think of her mother, her grandmother.  She shook her head.There was nothing to do.  I was on her turf.

I turned to go.  But then she called out, "OK, OK!"  She made it clear she wanted no extra money for the extraordinary favor she was extending.  But I gave her a handsome tip and clasped her hand.